The western coast of Sri Lanka offers miles of wide sandy beaches, natural wonders and vibrant cultural sites. The people are super friendly and it feels very safe everywhere, even on the somewhat chaotic roads. Be sure to try the brightly colored tuk tuks, a fun and cheap way to travel shorter distances. From the lively capital, Colombo, to the wide sandy beach of Bentota to the fascinating walled town of Galle Fort, this region is ideal for travelers looking for both relaxation and adventure. You can explore ancient temples, indulge in fresh seafood and experience the warm hospitality that makes the western coast of Sri Lanka a must-visit destination.
Galle Fort
Start your Sri Lanka visit in Galle Fort, a delightful fortified town on the south western coast that offers a fascinating glimpse into Sri Lanka’s colonial past. The Unesco World Heritage Site was founded by the Portuguese in 1588, later run by the Dutch and the British until Ceylon gained its independence in 1948 and became Sri Lanka. All three countries’ influences are reflected in its charming cobblestone streets, grand colonial buildings, churches and ancient ramparts. History buffs will enjoy a tour starting at the Dutch reform church built in 1750, with heritage interpreter, Tharana Llyana Arachchi, booked through the excellent Sensory Indulgences, a new tour company that offers customized experiences with local experts.
This well-preserved colonial fortress also has plenty of shops selling local products, cozy cafes, restaurants and lovely hotels. Fort Bazaar, a 17th-century merchant’s home-turned-boutique hotel, has 18 stylish guest rooms and fresh, contemporary interiors invoking a Middle Eastern vibe. Charming boutique hotel The Merchant has twelve rooms, a lovely large terrace and a great bar. The Bungalow is a fabulous bar and restaurant with tantalising cocktails like Galle Crush or the Lankan with local arrack. The Arch is run by Sri Lankan born Chef Charitha Sham who, after a 15-year stint in New York, returned home to launch a fine dining restaurant with a focus on seafood. Stop for a delicious range of teas like ginger honey and cinnamon and homemade ginger biscuits at the petite Royal Dutch Cafe, tucked away at No. 72 Leyn Baan Street.
Kosgoda
Just up the coast, about 30 miles north of Galle Fort, is the small village of Kosgoda which has a long history of Buddhist worship and it is home to a number of ancient temples and religious sites. The best known is the Kosgoda Raja Maha Viharaya, a Buddhist temple that dates back to the 16th century. Kosgoda is also famous as a sea turtle breeding area.
A really special place, right on the beach, is the Kosgoda Sea Turtle Conservation Project, run by Dudley Perera and his team of keen volunteers. Five (green, olive ridley, loggerhead, hawksbill and leatherback turtles) of the seven species of the world’s marine turtles, nest on the local beach in Kosgoda and require protection from poachers
You can visit the Kosgoda turtle hatchery where the rescued turtle eggs are hatched and you may have the chance to help release newly hatched baby turtles back into the sea. Turtles injured in fishermen’s nets are also rescued and healed at the sanctuary.
Bentota
Heading further north along the coastal roads, you will find Kirana, an idyllic villa on a vast stretch of sandy beach on the Indian Ocean, that can be rented in its entirety or as one of four double suites. Kirana, meaning “ray of light” is a chic, modern villa, near Bentota, a popular Sri Lankan beach town.
The villa was designed by Sri Lankan architect Channa Daswatta who also designed the stylish Cinnamon Bentota Beach hotel nearby. Kirana is sister property to Santani Wellness resort, in the hills of a tea plantation near Kandy. Kirana is a beautiful blend of contemporary design with a lush, tropical feel. The four ground-floor guestrooms which include two double bedrooms with king-sized beds and a two-bedroom family suite (double/twin bedroom) are spacious, each open onto the garden with views of the beach. A nice touch is the wonderful outdoor shower off the main bathroom in the master suite. The villa is fully staffed with butlers and a private chef who prepares delicious Sri Lankan curries as you lounge beside the beautiful 20 meter infinity pool. Meals are based on the Ayurveda philosophy of “Rasa Haya,” meaning six tastes: sweet, salty, sour, pungent, bitter and astringent.
For a nice afternoon stroll up the beach from Kirana villa, head to Cinnamon Bentota Beach hotel where there’s a small art gallery with local crafts and sculptures. There are also lots of paintings throughout the hotel and a stunning bright batik ceiling in reception. The bright airy bar is great for cocktails or tea.
Brief Garden
A fascinating excursion by tuktuk from Kirana Villa is Brief Garden, the home and garden of Bevis Bawa, now owned by Dooland De Silva who was Mr. Bawa’s longtime manager. Established in 1929, the gardens, spread over five acres, have hosted Sir Laurence Olivier, Vivien Leigh, Peter Finch, Queen Ingrid of Denmark and Agatha Christie. Bevis Bawa, the brother of Sri Lanka’s most famous architect Geoffrey Bawa, was a highly respected landscape designer and artist.
A visit to the garden can be followed by a tour of the house which is packed with artworks by Bevis Bawa and his artist visitors, along with photos of his famous guests. Travelling to Brief feels like you’re visiting a secret place as its only access is via a twisty dirt road a couple of miles off the main roads.
Practicalities
With tourism worth at least 10% of Sri Lanka’s economy, it’s important to encourage travel there. And this is a poor country where the average monthly wage is around $200, so do tip generously.
Sri Lankan airlines is the only airline with daily direct flights from London Heathrow, Paris and Frankfurt to Colombo. Kirana Villa and Galle Fort are both within a two hour drive from Colombo airport. A combination beach and retreat holiday is also available from Santani with a stay at Santani Wellness near Kandy and Kirana, a Santani Villa, No.338/340, Warahena, Bentota.
